Svalbard Ski & Sail

These days lost baggage seems to be part of the airlines’ business model. While rare, it does happen to one or two guests each season. Here’s a couple of tips to reduce the chances your bags will be delayed:

1. Skis are most likely to arrive on time if they are packed in smaller sized ski bags without additional items. Additional items with your skis increases the chances of the bag getting searched and delayed.
2. Smaller, soft sided baggage (e.g. duffels) seems to be more likely to make it on time.

And here are a few tips to help minimize the consequences of lost baggage:

1. Bring your boots as carry-on. Seriously, one day you will be very glad you did. Rental boots are no substitute for your own boots.
2. Bring your daypack filled with your ski clothing and beacon. Your shovel and probe can go in your checked baggage as this is stuff that’s easy enough to rent in Svalbard.
3. Make sure you have travel insurance that will cover the cost of additional rentals and clothing purchases in the event of delayed or lost baggage.

If you do end up in Longyearbyen without one or more of your bags, you’ll obviously need to come up with replacements. SportCenteret, located in Longyearbyen, has a small selection of excellent rental touring skis. And there are many shops that sell high quality outdoor clothing.

There is no laundry available on the boat so bring lots of extra socks and underwear. There are sinks and showers you could use in a pinch.

There is room for storing extra stuff in a hold on the boat. Cabins are double occupancy and are also quite small for storing extra gear. Bring small duffels (50-70L max) to make sure they fit under the bunks.

Ski bags, gear and luggage that you will not need during the sailing expedition may be stored on shore in a locked container.

• I seldom have issues with skis getting delayed but in the hundreds of clients we deal with each year it does happen occasionally and it's one of the reasons I try to travel with 2 extra pairs of touring skis whenever I travel (165 + 178 cm usually).

• I would definitely carry on your ski boots -- no question there. If those go missing you'll be sorry.

• I find boots fit surprisingly well into a ski bag. Or just carry them as your "personal item" -- yes they're oversized but I've never been called on it. If they say they're too big you could always wear them after all!

• Tell the check-in agent that one of your bags is "ski equipment" and the other bag is "skis". They will often allow you to check an extra bag that accompanies ski equipment for free. Remind them if they aren't familiar with this policy and they'll look it up.

• I wouldn't bother carrying on the probe and shovel, these are easily rented and could cause problems.

Transfers are not included in the trip fee. This is because guests arrive at different times and dates and also because there's a great public service available.

Convenient bus airport transfers bring you from the airport to the hotel and also pick up at the hotels before flights. They are waiting directly outside the airport after every flight arrival. LYR is about 4 km from town, so about 7 minutes by taxi and 10-15 minutes by bus depending on hotel (less than 10 minutes from Mary Ann’s where we’re staying). Cost is about 100 NOK pp for a return ticket (170 NOK for return tickets). You can also hire a taxi which costs about 200-300 NOK each way for a minvan. Don’t worry — the bus is comfortable and extremely convenient with lots of room for passengers, baggage and skis! Did we mention it’s 4 km and less than 10 minutes?

At the end of the trip you can take the same shuttle bus back to the airport. However, we recommend you coordinate a taxi with other guests who are on the same homeward flight with you. Reservations are strongly recommended. The options are Longyearbyen Taxi: +47 79 02 13 75 and Svalbard Bus and Taxi: +47 79 02 13 05

We operated our 2022, 2023 and 2024 trips with no significant issues and anticipate the same in 2025 and beyond. Currently there are no restrictions for traveling due to Covid. Sawback does, however, have a Sickness Policy. Please be sure to read it carefully.

Please bring a mask with you on the plane. We strongly recommend using it for your air travel — especially if you are seated next to someone who’s hacking and coughing. You really don’t want to arrive sick for this trip.

Ice ax and boot crampon use is not part of our regular program. If you are coming with a group that is motivated to do steeper lines then boot crampons and an ice axe is an idea. But I don’t want to tell you to bring them and have you disappointed if we don’t use them. I have never had the need (and don’t list them on the equipment list for Svalbard), but once or twice I’ve had to modify our route where boot crampons would have made a difference. I think you can discuss this as a group — we will have a great week of skiing without the spiky things, but they could potentially open up possibilities. Feel free to contact us if your group is in this category.

Mid April to May 25 is the season for Svalbard Ski and Sail trips. The temperatures are mild and stable, with lows typically around -5°C and highs around +2°C. We have seen lows as cold as -15 in April and highs up to +8 in late May so come prepared for a wide range of conditions.

The snowpack is typically stable and snow surfaces are pretty variable. Skiing of the spring corn variety can be found, as can crusts of all descriptions and what we call “Arctic Pow” (faceted snow that is fun to ski). The weather is typically dry (good for skiing on the treeless landscape!) but true powder snow comes with infrequent storms, especially in the first half of the season. While there is 24-hour daylight the sun never creep so high above the horizon as to cause the same kind of intense radiation you get elsewhere so the snow stays remarkably preserved.

Earlier than mid-April we have to fight with fast and drift ice in the fjords. Later than May 25 the snowline begins to recede from the melting shorelines, and as of 2025 the Governor of Svalbard has imposed landing restrictions, especially in the National Parks, that limit ski and sail programs to the point that we no longer offer trips past this date. However, it is true that good skiing exists in Svalbard well into June on the countless glaciers.

Towels are provided. There’s plenty of hot water and shower facilities (four showers in total). There will also be an opportunity for a polar dip if you’re so inclined!

Svalbard Ski and Sail Logistics

Our Svalbard Ski and Sail trips starts and finish in Longyearbyen on Svalbard. There are usually multiple daily flights between Longyearbyen and Oslo, Norway.

If you choose to only participate in the boat portion of this trip, you must arrive in Longyearbyen at the latest on Sunday (Day 4 - see Itinerary tab). We will be boarding the boat at around 4:00 pm. At the end of the sailing trip we arrive back in Longyearbyen on Saturday evening and so the earliest flight back to Oslo is Sunday morning at 7:30 am with SAS.

There is an optional 3 days of ski touring offered (see Itinerary tab). If you arrive in Longyearbyen on Day 1 then you can participate in all three pre-sail ski tours, but you can also arrive later than that if you like. Please advise us of your intentions so we can make hotel bookings and other arrangements.

When you book your return flight, you can book a flight (even a very early one works, e.g. the SAS at 07:30 am) from Longyearbyen on the last day (see Itinerary tab).

Airport Hotel Transfers

There are convenient bus airport transfers that bring you from the airport to the hotel and also pick up at the hotels before flights. Transfers are not included in the trip fee. LYR is about 4 km from town, so about 7 minutes by taxi and 10-15 minutes by bus depending on hotel (less than 10 minutes from Mary Ann’s where we’re staying). Cost is about 100 NOK pp for a return ticket (170 NOK for return tickets). You can also hire a taxi which costs about 200-300 NOK each way for a minivan. See this web page for details. Don’t worry — the bus is comfortable and extremely convenient with lots of room for passengers, baggage and skis! Did we mention it’s 4 km and less than 10 minutes?

Booking your flights

There’s no fast way to get to Svalbard. That said, I do have some hard won advice.

First of all, please bring your boots as carry-on. Do not put them in your checked baggage. Many things can be purchased or rented in the case of lost baggage but not boots. We also suggest you bring your ski touring pack with a set of clothing and transceiver (check your shovel and probe as these are things that can be loaned to you easily).

Finding a good deal on a good flight itinerary to Longyearbyen takes a bit of work. Book well in advance of your trip. Be careful of using the discount sites as additional luggage fees — charged for each leg of your trip potentially — can be pretty hefty. You will need two 23-kg bags so factor that into your planning.

Look for and spend a bit of extra money if necessary to get flights with shorter (<4 hr) stopovers and as few connections as possible.

For your flight to Oslo, look for flights with shorter durations and the fewest connections. Direct flights to Oslo from North America are only available from New York City, Miami and Los Angeles (see this webpage for a comprehensive list of direct international flights to Oslo).

I recommend you use one of the big airlines like KLM/Delta or Lufthansa/Air Canada all the way to Oslo, aiming to arrive in Oslo in the early afternoon. Remember to account for baggage costs. SAS offers direct flights from a couple of US hubs (I believe Newark and Denver). Iceland Air offers a slightly different schedule and is worth checking out — not to mention they allow a “free” multi-day “stopover” option for those thinking of checking out Iceland as part of this trip!

From Oslo you typically need to overnight and catch the next morning’s flight to Longyearbyen (with SAS or Norwegian airlines), unless your previous flight was very early in the day (from within Europe). There may be exceptions, such as on Saturdays: If you are skipping the optional 3-days in Longyearbyen (Days 1-3) it's possible to leave North America on Friday and arrive in Longyearbyen on the SAS flight that lands at 19:00 Saturday evening.

For the return (Day 11) SAS has flights that fly from Longyearbyen via Oslo arriving in London on the final day. You can stay at the Radisson Hotel London Heathrow and catch an early flight the next day back to North America -- pretty slick actually. Air Canada has great itineraries code sharing with SAS flying: Longyearbyen to Montreal/Vancouver/Calgary with a ~12 hr layover in London, perfect for getting a good night's sleep.

Oslo Airport Hotel

At the Oslo Airport (Gardermoen) my recommendation is the Radisson Hotel & Conference Centre Oslo Airport ($$-$$$). It’s very comfortable and has an excellent Norwegian-style breakfast buffet — definitely get the “with breakfast” option! It is a short walk from the airport (turn left out of arrivals and walk about 400 m; you can bring a luggage cart with you). It’s very comfortable, and my recommendation for efficiency. I do not recommend booking with a third party agency for the Radisson as making changes will be more complicated and booking directly with the hotel also ensures the best rate (lowest rate is guaranteed).

If you want something a bit cheaper and close to the airport there’s the Scandic Gardermoen ($$). It’s a 7 minute cab or shuttle drive away, which adds to the cost and complication factor. The shuttle service stops at Oslo Airport are on the lower level of Oslo Airport – platform 39. Vy shuttle S55 runs every 15 minutes weekdays from 04:35 – 10:20 and 14:20 – 17:20. Saturday and Sunday every 30 minutes from 04:35 to 01:05 (last departure from the airport). Cost is 80 NOK.

Oslo is a great world class city to visit. There are also good, interesting hotels in downtown Oslo if you want to spend a night or a few days there before or after the trip. I recommend storing your bulky gear at the Gardermoen airport (See Avinor Baggage Check for details & pricing) and taking the train into town with a light overnight bag. Here are a few to consider:

• Hotel Continental Oslo – Owned by the same family for four generations, Continental is the only Norwegian member of “Leading Hotels of the World”. $$$
• Scandic Victoria – Central hotel, short walk to Karl Johans gate, parliament and Spikersuppa ice skating rink. $$
• Comfort Hotel Grand Central – Inside the main train station, 30-min transfer from Oslo airport. $
• Hotel Rosencrantz – Design hotel in the centre of Oslo. $$

On the way back, book a flight for Day 11 (see Itinerary tab for dates) to Oslo. You can book the earliest flights available but a later flight might be more civilized. If you are heading to a European city as your final destination you should be able to continue on same day. If you are heading across the Atlantic, plan to stay in Oslo again that night and catch an early flight back home, again with one of the big airlines. If offered (rate) it's also possible to fly out of Longyearbyen on the evening of Day 10 (book a flight no earlier than 19:00).

What to do when you arrive in Oslo

If you spend a few days in Oslo there’s lots to do. Take the train (there are two companies; vy.no is the one to use) to the main station and walk around the town. Be sure to check out the harbourfront which has lots of nice restaurants and things to see. Here’s a great post-arrival itinerary:

1. Book into your airport hotel and have a quick shower. Radisson Hotel & Conference & Red are the nicest but 500 m from the airport, Radisson Blue is right next to the train station and airport. You can store most of your stuff in a storage room at check-in, so make sure you have a small pack with your essentials. Don’t take a nap!
2. Take the train to the Oslo Central Station. Vy and Flytoget are the two train options, with Vy being a lot cheaper and only a few minutes slower. See this how-to for details%20per%20adult).
3. Check out the sauna on the harbourfront: Oslo Badstuforening or Pust Sauna. Don’t forget towels and bathing suit. Best is to reserve your spot online well in advance.
4. Then check out one of the great restaurants with patios with harbour views, such as Seaport Restaurant.
5. Take the train back to your hotel and around 9 or 10 pm go to sleep. Maybe take a Melatonin tablet to help with jetlag!

Sightseeing in Oslo

Norway’s capital offers world-class culture, food, and easy access to nature. Arriving early is a great way to see this city while getting over your jetlag and hedging for flight and baggage delays.

• City center & waterfront – stroll Karl Johans gate, the Opera House, and the modern harbor district Aker Brygge.
• MUNCH museum – located at the centre / waterfront
• Kon-Tiki Museum – Thor Heyerdahl’s raft expeditions.
• Fram Museum – Polar Expedition Museum.
• Holmenkollen Ski Jump – panoramic views over Oslofjord and a museum dedicated to ski history.
• Nordmarka forest – endless trails for hiking, cross-country skiing, or just a peaceful escape minutes from downtown.
• Saunas & fjord swims – join locals for a hot sauna followed by a dip in the Oslofjord.
• Dining & nightlife – from Michelin-starred restaurants to cozy bakeries and vibrant bars, Oslo is a food lover’s hub.
• Vigeland Sculpture Park – an open-air gallery with more than 200 granite and bronze works by Gustav Vigeland. Extremely cool and a lovely place to enjoy an afternoon using a rented bicycle.
• Royal Palace & Slottsparken – watch the changing of the guard and stroll the gardens around the Norwegian Royal Family’s residence.
• Bygdøy Peninsula – home to Oslo’s famous maritime museums and scenic coastal walks.
• Mathallen Food Hall – a lively indoor market where you can sample Norwegian and international specialties.
• Oslo Opera House – great place to walk and rooftop view.

Oslo is compact, modern, and walkable, making it an easy stopover to enjoy a taste of urban Norway before your Arctic adventure.

Eating in Oslo and Svalbard

Here are a collection of tips for eating in Norway & Svalbard.

OSL – cheap eats

If you need a fast bite to eat before heading to your hotel, “cheap” pizza is the way to go, located at airport arrivals. Peppes Pizza. Large pizza ~300 NOK (~$42 CAD).

The airport Radisson hotels also have good restaurants with excellent Norwegian menus, but beware: they close at 23:00.

LYR – restaurants (book ahead with large groups)

• Basecamp Spitzbergen Hotel – nice group table. $$
• Restaurant Kroa – burgers, pizza. $-$$
• Vinterhagen – in a greenhouse at Mary-Ann’s. $$-$$$
• Barentz Gastropub – pizza and beer. $-$$
• Svalbar Pub – good food. $-$$
• Svalbard Brewery – northernmost brewery, tour/tasting. $$$
• Coal Miner’s Bar and Grill – pub food. $-$$
• NUGA Sushi – Tokyo-style sushi. $
• Stationen – pub food, beef tagliata recommended. $$
• Polfareren – upscale, small portions. $$$-$$$$
• Gruvelageret – 3 km from town, high end. $$$-$$$$

A few web resources

• Svalbard Topo Map – excellent online topo.
• Avenza - install this free mapping app and get the Svalbard maps, also free, from the Avenza store!
• Polarmuseum website – worth a visit.
• Blog post from our 2018 trip
• Norwegian Airlines – budget airline, free WiFi.
• SAS Airlines – codeshares with AC, UA, LH.
• Iceland Air – free stopovers in Iceland.

If you want to avoid roaming charges but still have cell data or make phone calls, it is very difficult to simply pick up a SIM card in Norway. We recommend getting an eSIM from Airalo with the Norway “Local eSIM” plan. This will let you check email and do messaging and internet calls with services like WhatsApp, Messenger, iMessenger, etc. Do this before you leave home (best done with Wi-Fi available) so that it’s ready to go when you arrive. Setup can be a bit tricky but Airalo has decent how-tos.

Be sure to turn off you regular SIM before you enter the roaming space so you don’t pick up roaming charges. If you want to make and receive phone calls then we recommend the Hushed App, which gives you a virtual phone number (Canadian, UK and US numbers are available) at affordable rates.

Short answer, yes. You can book the 20:00 flight if you need to get home in a hurry.

This means you will be a bit rushed packing up and getting to the airport, and you'll miss the final dinner. But we aim to be back to Longyearbyen by 17:00 at the latest, and you should have time to pack your bags during the sail back after skiing.

It's not a bad idea, just changes the nature of the end of your trip quite a bit.

As always with tight travel arrangements, make sure you have flexible tickets and/or insurance in case of the unexpected.

Many guests choose to rent skis or other equipment from us. Particularly skis can be a hassle to travel with, and often get delayed due to their bulk on flights operating at capacity. Please check out our rental list here: rental.sawback.com. Let us know what you need to rent and we'll take care of it!

Our northernmost point will be less than 80 degrees, and at most about 79.6 degrees North. So issues there.

Tipping is always optional of course. But tipping culture in multicutural Svalbard is a bit complex. Here are some tipping suggestions:

• Ship’s crew: Consider 200 EUR if you feel the ship’s crew has done a great job. They ask that you please bring cash for this in EUR, and not Norwegian Krones.
• Guiding staff: Consider 5% of your trip fee for a job well done, and 10% if we significantly exceeded your expectations (i.e. provided you with repairs or rental gear at no cost, made a special effort to accommodate you, etc.) Cash is preferred (CAD or USD if possible) but you can also send money electronically via our payment portal, pay.sawback.com (it’s your choice, credit card or transfer. Note that credit cards incur a 2.7% fee whereas bank transfers ensure all the cash arrives in our bank account with no fees!
• Restaurants in Svalbard: there is no tipping culture in Norway, and tipping is not expected. However, 5% is a welcome gesture for excellent service.

No there is no internet access available on the boat. However, Norwegians are big fans of cellular coverage and you might be surprised to get a strong enough cell signal to check your messages from time to time, especially in the first and last days of the sailing trip.

There is plenty of heating on the Noorderlicht and there are numerous radiators and places where you can dry your gear. The engine room is also occasionally made available if we have an especially wet day. We also recommend you bring along a piece of thin (2-3 mm) cord to fashion a drying rack in your room.

In fact we’ve never needed them. The guides might get their feet wet pulling/pushing the Zodiac onto/off shore but everyone else uses a little wooden step to keep dry.

Included: 7 nights yacht rental with crew, harbour fees, permit fees, UIAGM / IFMGA mountain guides, multi-course dinners and breakfast on board. Pre-trip land-based ski touring: 3 additional days guided ski touring and excursions out of Longyearbyen, 3 x Hotel B&B. Not included: Air travel, alcoholic beverages, lunches and dinners in Longyearbyen, hotel in Oslo en route

The short answer to both questions is “No”. While it is possible we will see polar bears on this trip it is highly unlikely. Many tourists travel to Svalbard with the goal of seeing polar bears, and join trips that specifically go into the polar bear’s prime habitat — which is north into the pack ice. The goals of our trip are simple: to get the best possible skiing accessible by sail boat. This means sticking to the ice-free waters further south. As a result, I have to disappoint those of you hoping to see polar bears.

At the same time, polar bear safety is always an important consideration. There will always be at least one person in each group carrying a rifle as well as flare guns (a type of bear deterrent). Since we move from place to place and do not camp on land, there is also no chance of enticing a bear over time into our midst.

The reports we hear every couple of years about encounters with polar bears on Svalbard are either with habituated bears close to the towns or far north with tour groups actually seeking out polar bear encounters. Unfortunately in each case the end result has been the destruction of a bear who is usually emaciated, desperate and close to death already.

The Northern Lights season ends in April in Svalbard. It’s not that they don’t exist after that time, but the midnight sun makes it impossible to see them!

We provide you with a variety of snacks, but bring your own if you’re fussy.

Yes!

Helmets are not mandatory but are recommended.

There are plenty of charging outlets. Just be aware it’s Euro-outlet (2-prong) 220V which works with just a plug adapter for USB chargers, phones, heated socks — but not your hair dryers!

Yes you can use a credit card to pay for misc items on board. Cash is always preferred for tipping.

Coal Miners’ Cabins - Budget expedition style - * Type: basic lodge / hostel hybrid Typical price: roughly NOK 900 to 1500 per night for simple rooms.
Description: Former miners’ housing converted to accommodation. Rooms are simple; many share bathrooms and kitchens. Social atmosphere and practical for guides, students, or expedition teams staging gear. Slightly outside town centre.

Svalbard Hotell Polfareren - Midrange modern hotel - ** Type: comfortable boutique hotel Typical price: about NOK 2400 to 3000 per night.
Description: Modern rooms, central location, solid breakfast, common choice for independent travelers and small groups. Practical base in town with easy access to operators and restaurants.

Mary-Ann’s Polarrigg - Character hotel - ** Type: quirky Arctic themed lodge Typical price: roughly NOK 2000 to 3000 depending on room type.
Description: One of the most distinctive properties in town. Built around old miners’ barracks with eclectic decor, cozy bar, and a bit of expedition nostalgia. Popular with photographers and adventure travellers.

Radisson Blu Polar Hotel Spitsbergen - Conventional full-service hotel - ** to *** Type: international standard hotel Typical price: roughly NOK 2500 to 3500+ per night depending on season.
Description: Large comfortable hotel in central Longyearbyen with restaurant, bar, meeting rooms, and views over Adventfjorden. Often used by expeditions and conferences.

Basecamp Spitsbergen - Boutique Arctic lodge - ** to *** Type: small themed boutique hotel Typical price: roughly NOK 3000 to 4500+ per night depending on room type and season.
Description: A distinctive small hotel in the centre of Longyearbyen built in traditional trapper style. Interiors use driftwood, furs, maps and expedition artifacts to mimic a historic hunting lodge. Only about 16 rooms, so it feels intimate and atmospheric compared with the larger hotels in town.

Funken Lodge - High-end Arctic hotel - *** Type: upscale lodge / luxury boutique Typical price: about NOK 4000+ per night.
Description: The most upscale property in Longyearbyen. Located above town with views over the fjord and glaciers; stylish rooms, strong restaurant, and quieter atmosphere.