True Adventure in the Heart of the Canadian Rockies: the Wapta and Bow Yoho Ski Traverses

by Christian Schlumpf, ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

People often ask what my favourite trips are to guide. It’s a difficult question to answer, but the ski traverses of the Canadian Rockies are always at the top of my list.

There are many reasons for this—the landscapes are vast and magnificent, the ski runs are long and panoramic, and the snowy peaks and icefields of the Wapta and Bow Yoho Traverses offer a rare opportunity to fully disconnect from the outside world. But most importantly, these trips feel like a true adventure, where teams may start as strangers, but almost always finish as good friends.

The nature of a ski traverse is that you must move forward, often through variable weather and mountain conditions. There are usually a few different route options, each with different pros and cons. To be successful, a team needs to come together, support each other, and sometimes push through some discomfort and doubt.

Of course, as a mountain guide and avalanche professional, my job is first and foremost to keep each group safe. But secondly, I strive for my guests to find that edge where they’re a bit out of their comfort zone, but still having a good time. These are the experiences that foster real learning, growth, connection and accomplishment.

Morning view from the Balfour Hut, midway through the Wapta Traverse. Photo: Grace Hucek

A Storm at Balfour High Col on the Wapta Traverse

One recent experience that comes to mind was on Day 5 of the Wapta Traverse, traveling between Balfour Hut and Scott Duncan Hut. This section is considered to be the crux of the traverse, with some fairly involved glacier travel leading up to a high mountain pass at over 3000 metres of elevation.

Our group was a bit tired at this point of the trip, but spirits were high as we moved beneath the spectacular seracs of the north face of Mt. Balfour. As we approached the pass, I noticed that dark clouds were headed our way. It’s common in spring for small systems like this to pass through, and I was confident it wouldn’t last for very long. However, there was a long glacier on the other side, and we really wanted good visibility to descend it.

Just as we arrived at the pass, the weather hit and we lost all visibility as the wind picked up and it started to snow. I calmly told everyone to put all their layers on and get their shovels out. We were going to dig a big hole in the snow to help keep ourselves warm and provide some shelter.

About 30 minutes later, when the clouds began to lift, the views toward the southern end of the Waputik Icefield were stunning. Clicking into our skis, we enjoyed a long and panoramic run with a dusting of fresh snow, made just a little sweeter because of those recent moments of uncertainty.

Weathering a short storm at the Balfour high col. Photo: Chris Laurel

What It's Like to Ski the Wapta and Bow Yoho Traverses

While these traverse trips can involve a bit of hardship, they’re mostly quite comfortable and a ton of fun.

We start our classic Wapta and Bow Yoho Traverses in the small and historic town of Field, B.C., at the Truffle Pigs Bistro & Lodge. This is an excellent, independently-owned business, with, in my humble opinion, one of the best restaurants in western Canada.

The next morning, we get a shuttle ride up the scenic Icefields Parkway to the trailhead at either Bow Lake or Peyto Lake, depending on the itinerary. Then up we go into the mountains for the next 6 days. We find some truly excellent skiing along the way, and having this amount of time for the traverse allows us to thoroughly explore the areas we’re traveling through.

Skiing Mt. Des Poilus: A Bow Yoho Traverse Highlight

Another one of my favourite memories from these trips is skiing off the summit of Mt. Des Poilus, a very aesthetic 3161m peak in Yoho National Park along the Bow Yoho Traverse.

To be able to ski this peak, the stars need to align with good weather, favourable avalanche conditions, and a strong and motivated team. This day we had all three, along with perfect boot-top powder conditions for skiing. Good powder on this peak isn’t a given, since the face gets a lot of sun and can quickly form a crust after warm and sunny days. Mt. Des Poilus was a challenging summit with expansive views, and the run down remains a highlight of my guiding career.

Ascending the final slopes to the summit of Mt. Des Poilus. Photo: Christian Schlumpf

Are the Bow Yoho or Wapta Traverses for you?

You don’t need to have much experience ski touring to enjoy these trips. You should, however, be a good downhill skier, confident in variable conditions, and have the fitness to walk uphill for 4 to 6 hours with a medium-sized pack. Also, you should want to ski in a wild and beautiful place—that, I’m sure, most folks would sign up for.

Just as importantly, you should have a sense of adventure, and a willingness to embrace whatever conditions the mountains have in store. You might be surprised at how rewarding it will be.

Eliel Bureau-Lafontaine, Corey Woolnough, and me (Christian Schlumpf), a little sunburnt and feeling a sense of accomplishment after 6 days on the Wapta Traverse.